In the vibrant world of fashion, innovation often emerges at the intersection of creativity and cultural art exchange. In this exclusive interview, we speak with Sans, the creative director and co-founder of untitlab®, a groundbreaking brand that has made waves by fusing fashion, art, and performance. With roots in both London and Shanghai, Sans shares insights into the brand’s unique vision, the inspiration behind their latest collection showcased at London Fashion Week, and their journey as pioneers in the industry.
Could you share the story of how untitlab® was founded and how you started working with the other founders?
Sans: My name is Sans, and I’m the creative director of untitlab®. I co-founded the brand with two others, Zen and Nicholas. We met at university almost ten years ago and decided to create a platform centered around shoes. Our vision was to combine fashion with elements of music, art, and performance, which led us to name the brand “untitlab®”.
We wanted to explore creativity through shoes and accessories while integrating various art forms. Initially, we were inspired to create this brand due to a lack of interesting shows in China. Prior to this, I worked in Paris and Angel Chan in Shanghai, gaining valuable experience that contributed to our journey.
Can you share some inspirations behind this collection for London Fashion Week?
Sans: For this collection, Nicholas and I decided to host a performance at the ICA(Institute of Contemporary Arts) in London, which is known for its contemporary art exhibitions. We approached them about the idea of a fashion show, and after several months of discussions, they agreed.
The collection aims to bridge fashion with art, focusing on themes of struggle and personal experience, especially our journey moving from Asian countries to the West. This year’s concept is about “Abuse”, reflecting our desire to explore new creative avenues, which resonates with many people’s life experiences.
How do you embody the spirit of breaking boundaries in your designs?
Sans: Our designs draw inspiration from diverse lifestyles and the people around us. We aim to create comfortable, functional pieces that cater to various activities, from office wear to outdoor adventures. This season, we included sporty elements and hybrid designs to encourage people to express themselves freely without adhering to strict fashion norms.
Do you have any recommendations for young or inspiring designers?
Sans: I really admire designers like Comme des Garçons for their innovative approach to art in fashion. I also appreciate Simone Rocha for her creativity. Additionally, Wet Studio, focuses on modern bridal wear, which is refreshing. Other Asian designers I admire include yuhan wang and Caroline Hu, who incorporate traditional techniques in contemporary ways.
What kind of person do you think wears untitlab®?
Sans: Our customers are diverse and confident, embracing their individuality. Interestingly, around 70% of our customers are female, which differs from our initial expectations. Our goal is to cater to a wide audience, including various gender identities and age groups. We want our designs to resonate with anyone who seeks to express themselves without limitations.
What do you believe is the most important factor in building a successful brand?
Sans: I think it’s essential to keep learning. In the early years, I focused heavily on design but soon realized the importance of understanding business aspects like marketing, logistics, and customer feedback. Creativity is just one part of the equation; successful branding requires a willingness to absorb knowledge and adapt. Building a strong team and being open to new ideas are crucial to navigating the complexities of running a brand.
What advice would you offer to individuals who aspire to establish their own business in
the fashion industry?
Sans: When you have an emotional idea, consider acting on it immediately, or you might lose the opportunity. Also, make sure to learn as much as you can before starting the brand.
When you have an emotional idea, consider acting on it immediately.
