Throughout history, humanity has earnestly employed every conceivable means to pursue perfection in various domains. Nevertheless, the definition of perfection remains subject to individual interpretation. It prompts us to contemplate a wonder – Isn’t Imperfection make us human? Embodying this philosophy is the brand we want to introduce today – VANN.
VANN, a jewellery brand founded by Vann Kwok in 2019, creates unique and ephemeral pieces that resonate with the brand’s central theme – “the beauty of the moment” through the ingenious use of materials and the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with modern technology.
Drawing inspiration from the Japanese philosophical concept of wabi-sabi, VANN aims to embody the essence of this traditional wisdom, celebrating the beauty found in imperfection and impermanence through their designs. With a reverence for natural beauty, their pieces are intended to evoke a sense of comfort and confidence in those who wear them. Nothing is truly perfect and permanent. Rather than pursuing perfection, understanding oneself and embracing imperfections is the true affirmation of human existence.
What made you decide to evolve your career in the jewellery industry after graduation and initially build up your own brand?
VANN: After graduating with a degree in fashion design, I spent seven years working as a costume designer in the film industry. Deciding to explore a different platform for my creativity and experience a new culture, I took a career break and returned to school. At the London College of Fashion, I discovered the Fashion Artefact course. This unique program allowed me to delve into ideas that push the boundaries between art and fashion. The course provided me with extensive exposure to diverse studio practices and material methodologies. Ultimately, my fascination with using metal and resin to create wearable sculptures led me to pursue a career as a jewellery designer and launch my own brand.
Before creating VANN, you worked for well-known international designers and also worked as a freelance fashion stylist and costume designer. How did these experiences help in the establishment of the brand and influence your thoughts on creation?
VANN: My prior experience in film and stage costume work proved to be excellent training for brand management. Both fields require initiative, flexibility, and the ability to adapt to changing situations. Additionally, my experience crafting performance costumes contribute to the media’s receptiveness to my current designs, ultimately boosting brand promotion. I embarked on the journey of building a brand from the ground up since 2019. It wasn’t without its challenges, both major and minor, but my previous work experience significantly bolstered my resilience.
Believing in ‘Just as the journey is no less important than the destination,’ you let curiosity and sensation guide you in the design process. Can you share more about the philosophy behind your creations?
VANN: Each of my collection revolves around the central theme of “the beauty of the moment.” During the creation process, I strive to preserve the materials’ inherent qualities, allowing the marks of time and the creative journey to become part of the design. As my hands work with the materials, the evolving piece guides me towards the next stage of the design.
Therefore, intuition plays a significant role in my design process. The “final decision” often arises
from an instinctive feeling in the moment. This aligns perfectly with VANN’s philosophy – a belief in
the power of immediate inspiration. There’s no need for overthinking; the key is trusting that the
creation represents its optimal state at that point. Interestingly, my past works continue to resonate
with me over time, evoking new emotions with each encounter. Their life cycle extends far beyond
a single season, imbued with lasting significance.
With inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of ‘wabi-sabi,’ to what extent does it affect the spirit of your brand, and is it the reason why the forms of the designs are irregular, bold, and misshapen?
VANN: VANN draws inspiration from the timeless Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, which celebrates the beauty of imperfection and impermanence. We reject the notion of flawless beauty, instead finding individuality and character in the unique marks time leaves behind. This philosophy is reflected in our jewellery – pieces that embody the inherent beauty of randomness and irregularities formed through natural processes. We embrace the element of chance in our creative journey, welcoming the unexpected turns that shape each piece.
Your design blends traditional craftsmanship and modern technology. When considering the interplay of ‘Human vs Machine,’ how do you integrate and apply this idea, despite their seemingly conflicting nature?
VANN: Our work explores the dynamic interplay between the natural and the artificial – chance versus choice, control versus chaos. This exploration is evident in our creative process, where we
seamlessly blend machine technology with traditional craftsmanship and harness the participation
of the natural environment. We employ a meticulous, labor-intensive fabrication process to craft
wearable sculptures that harmoniously integrate with the human body. However, we also leverage
3D rendering for intricate fittings and compelling marketing materials. We value the wisdom of
tradition while embracing the boundless possibilities offered by technology.
What kind of experience or message would you like to deliver to the people wearing your design?
VANN: VANN believes imperfections are what make us human. Our jewellery celebrates this philosophy by embracing a natural aesthetic, empowering the wearer to feel confident and comfortable in their own skin. We also aim at pushing the boundaries of design by experimenting with innovative materials, unconventional shapes, and unique construction techniques. This constant exploration keeps fashion exciting, fosters creativity, and inspires others to break away from conventional thinking. Our designs transcend mere aesthetics; they serve as narratives, evoking emotions and transporting the wearer to different worlds.
Creating jewellery seems more challenging than making clothes. Does the design originate from drawing or through trial and error? Also, how do you translate your ideas into tangible objects?
VANN: My design inspiration stems from a rich tapestry of sources, including paintings, sculptures, and both social and spiritual content. The creative process itself is quite spontaneous. Once a general direction forms in my mind, I intentionally silence my inner critic and allow my hands to create freely. Typically, I explore and refine the design through three or four experimentations, ultimately selecting the most engaging one as the final piece.
Can you share why you chose to explore artificial intelligence and social media as the theme for the latest collection – SELF-DISCREPANCY in AW24?
VANN: As designers, I believe we are inevitably shaped by the cultural, temporal, and societal landscapes we inhabit. This often leads to powerful inspirations and results in collections that raise awareness about pressing social issues. As someone active on social media, I’m particularly aware of the phenomenon of AI-perpetuated beauty standards.
Our latest collection directly addresses this by exploring our inseparable relationship with media, electronic devices, and technology. It delves into the idea of devices as extensions of ourselves, examining how our reliance on technology blurs the lines between our physical and digital identities. It also explores the consequences of excessive screen time, the personas we curate online, and the potential disconnect between our virtual selves and real-world experiences.
From smartphones to smartwatches, these technological extensions have fundamentally transformed how we communicate, consume information, and navigate the world.
With the advancements in technology nowadays, innovative technologies also bring distinctive changes to the fashion industry. How do you perceive these changes, and will they affect your creative process?
VANN: The rise of fast fashion, a consequence of the information technology age where immediacy and impermanence dominate, fosters a pervasive culture demanding ever-faster production cycles, greater volume, and constant novelty across all industries. This presents a challenge for independent brands like ours in influencing mainstream shopping habits. However, by effectively leveraging the very tools of technology, we can carve out a unique market position. By connecting with customers who resonate with our brand philosophy, we can establish a loyal following and ensure our survival.
While in terms of design process, the frenetic pace of the world around me has ironically fostered a slower, more deliberate approach in my own life and creative practice. I prioritise taking the time to delve deeply into a subject, translating my research into something with lasting value and a message of positivity.
Do you have any advice for our readers who are considering to start their career or even their own business in fashion industry?
VANN: Define your core values and connect with an audience who shares your vision. Maintaining
enthusiasm requires constant exploration of new approaches. It’s also crucial to recognise that
past operational models may no longer be effective. As a startup, embracing experimentation is
key to finding innovative solutions and forging a new path.
Define your core values and connect with an audience who shares your vision.
